The Designer on a Denim Jacket Seven Years in the Making
Before launching WASEW, designer Hironori Kanan worked with Japanese denim manufacturer FULLCOUNT. WASEW’s first denim setup was released in 2022 — seven years after the project began. Each time he returned to denim, he found himself stuck in the depth of details and unable to move forward. That struggle came from understanding denim too well. Speaking not only as a designer but as a denim enthusiast, Hironori Kanan shares the story behind WASEW’s first denim jacket, “LOT0336 DENIM 1st JUMPER.”
A New Design Inspired by Vintage
[Hironori Kanan]
When creating a denim jacket, there’s something I’ve always felt. Even among vintage pieces — Lee, Wrangler, and various store brands — there were many different styles. I wanted to create something free from fixed ideas like “1st TYPE” or “2nd TYPE.”
When I decided to develop denim inspired by Lee 101, this idea became even stronger. It made me think deeply about what truly defines a denim jacket.
I don’t believe every short jacket made from denim is automatically a denim jacket. So I tried to define the essential elements of a denim jacket. Using vintage work jackets as a base, I reconstructed the silhouette and details to create something that feels authentic to the idea of a G-Jacket.
The Japanese Indigo Blue
To find the indigo blue I had in mind, I visited Ibara and Kojima in Okayama countless times. I wasn’t just searching for fabric, but for the right yarn, dye, and weaving method. While fading appears through wear, its quality is determined by these elements. Okayama is known worldwide for indigo dyeing, and for WASEW’s left-hand twill denim, only true Japanese indigo blue would work.
The warp yarn is spun using primarily Pima cotton blended with American cotton to recreate a natural long-slub texture.
Indigo dyeing is performed at room temperature, unlike typical dyeing methods that rely on high heat. To achieve depth, the yarn is dyed repeatedly and exposed to air to oxidize into indigo blue. This process is repeated around ten times to achieve WASEW’s ideal shade.
Texture Created by Vintage Looms
The denim is woven in a 3/1 twill structure, allowing the indigo warp yarn to appear on the surface. The warp tension is set loosely and woven slowly on vintage looms. This method is inefficient and requires skilled craftsmanship, but it creates a unique dry texture and rich character.
The finishing process is kept minimal, with only a wash for shrinkage control. This preserves the cotton’s natural softness and oils, improving comfort and feel.
Left-hand twill also enhances the twill lines and gives the fabric a refined appearance. The deep indigo tone and textured surface result in WASEW’s original denim — classic yet distinctive.
Craftsmanship in the Details
The defining feature of this jacket is the flap pockets inserted into the front yoke and the home-plate shaped pockets. The slightly deeper yoke and larger pockets create a workwear feel while maintaining the identity of a denim jacket.
The front is kept simple without pleats. Brass-colored donut buttons, matching the 5-pocket jeans, add a strong yet understated presence.
To maintain simplicity, a T-back was intentionally avoided. The back hem tucks are subtly finished with navy stitching. Single-piece sleeves are used, and cuff openings are reinforced with UFO rivets.
Although only two thread colors are used, stitch count and thread thickness are carefully adjusted throughout, giving the jacket depth and structure.
The Meaning of Making Denim
It wasn’t about creating something revolutionary. It was about expressing a love for denim. After seven years, what remained was simply a passion for denim. WASEW denim is made by a denim enthusiast — for denim enthusiasts.
"THE DENIM"
How WASEW Denim Fabric Is Made
